Wednesday, May 21, 2008

Hotel Reviews Rome from our clients

A big poo-poo to the Hotel St. George, a new property not far from the Piazza Navona.......or actually it is a ten minute walk, though they don't advertise that.....and oh! By the way, the concierge barely knows where the train station is, let alone how to book a ticket...........pretty bad behaviour from a five star hotel. On the Tiber side of the river, constant Vespa noise all night long........Clients prefer Hotel de la Minerve, their sister hotel nearby.

Right on the Borghese Gardens, the Splendide Royal is a traditionally styled very foofy decor, amazing location. Incredible views of the gardens from the rooms with opulent drapes and fabrics.........not much of a lobby, but a one star Michelin restaurant with a great chef, sommelier, and panoramic views of Rome from the terrace as you are dining.

Located near by the busy Spanish Steps, the Portrait Suites is more of an apartment pied a terre in town than a hotel. The very young staff is willing and able to secure train tickets, vintage Ferragamo, and direct you to the Bulgari outlet store. (on the way out of town) Very pretty roof garden, hot in the middle of summer, where you can enjoy cocktails from a fully stocked honor bar and enjoy the shade of an umbrella. Rooms are complete with mini-kitchens. A bit too gray for my taste, but chic and wonderfully located. Quiet.

The Hotel Piranesi is a perennial favorite, near the Spanish Steps and the Piazza Popolo, famed for the Caravaggio in the church nearby. Right across the street from the luxe Hotel deRussie, it boasts terraces at literally half the price of its' neighbor. Simple, friendly, very nice staff. Not cheap now that the Euro is in orbit.......and across the street the Hotel deRussie has been criticized recently for looking a bit tired.......but recent clients loved it, and the bar is such a great people watching venue, with young Italians, a contessa or two, the South American contingent and the normal quotient of Americans who look like your neighbors. Once the Russian embassy, it has a fabulous garden.



Monday, January 7, 2008

Paris to London via Harry Potter

The lastest huge development in Paris and London is the faster Eurostar from Gare du Nord Paris to St. Pancras London and back. It is now only two hours and 15 minutes or so, so one can easily go for the day. St. Pancras is reknowned as the train station that Harry Potter takes to Hogwarts in the movies. Apparently they have had to block off a small portion of the platform as devotees crash into the wall, trying to emulate Harry's departure to school. St.Pancras itself is a magnificent red Victorian building, and the neighboring hotel which mirrors its' magnificence is being completely renovated over the next two years. The train is very fast and very comfortable, but they are still working out some kinks-the car park, aka garage, is very far from where the passengers let out...............

Friday, January 4, 2008

slumming in paree

The fabulous part of being in Paris in the first part of January is that all of the decorations are still up but no one is there. If you are feeling flush or wish to push the boat out a bit, the sales are starting and the Michelin starred restaurants are easier to get into. Always go to lunch, not dinner, at a major restaurant like the French-it is cheaper, and then you walk off the meal in the afternoon.

The Grand Vefours, gastronomic three star hall-of-famer, is still oozing with history from its glass frescoes in the Palais Royal. After lunch you can walk through the gorgeous Palais Royal court and its' shops, passing by the famous (or infamous) checkerboard spaces and exquisite statuery and allee of trees. Sarkozy is threatening to remove the the checkerboard, as he says it is not well-maintained, and 70% of all Parisians say "oui!" Still, it is what France does so well-monumental but unexpected outdoor spaces.

All of Paris is agog and discussing the affair of their President Sarkozy and model/actress/singer Carla Bruni. My tres chic friend treated me to her Aqua Gym class at the venerable Ritz Hotel. So irate were the ladies regarding the non-presidential behaviour of their leader that there was nuch heated discussion while treading water and doing their leg kicks in the shallow end. Apparently Carla is hated for being a man-stealer; this is from the country that practically invented the mistress.

Wednesday, January 2, 2008

paris mon amour

greetings from cold and gorgeous Paris, the time of snow and sales.........

Any news you have heard that Heathrow is a nightmare, or cauchemar as we say in Français, is highly accurate. One cannot buy duty free upon departure from the US if you are transiting through Heathrow......no liquids!! I was busted by the (very polite) security guards for exiting one plane with contraband water before taking the next. In other words don't buy Scotch in LA on the way to Paris through Heathrow-someone else will be drinking your single malt.

However I quite enjoyed the shopping at Terminal 4; rumour has it that Terminal 3 is even better. Lulu Guiness handbags were on sale at Harrod's and champagne was cheaper than the US. British Airways has a nice lounge where you can take a shower or have a quick facial.......or my next favorite thing which is drink really strong coffee at the numerous expresso bars there. Terminal 4 also has an oyster bar which is reputedly decent.

Speaking of which for lovers of the glorious and controversial mollusks I had three different kinds last night, one of the treasures of this season in Paree. If you don't like them, read no further: I had pleine mer, fines de claire and speciales from Marennes d'Oléron. This is a bit south of Brittany, and purchased from the nice oyster man at his seasonal stand on the Rue de Sevres. They were opened with one of the non-purchasable oyster electric knives that do not exist in the States:(as far as I know.) The discovery of the evening was some French gourmands pepper their oysters while eating them with rye bread and SALTED butter.